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THE FASHION TECH BRIEFING

Nothing We Do Is Sustainable - Patagonia

Newsletter #80 | Read time • 3 mins

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Founder & CEO

Duncan McKay 

LinkedIn

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Image Source: Patagonia Progress Report 2025

After 52 years proving conscious capitalism could work, Patagonia just published five words that should terrify eveyone: "Nothing we do is sustainable."


Since 2017, their GHG emissions have risen 28%. To hit their 2040 net-zero target, they need to reduce absolute emissions by 90%. They're moving in the wrong direction.


CEO Ryan Gellert's "$30 million question" cuts deeper: if Patagonia invests heavily in decarbonising their supply chain but no one else follows, "we have completely failed." That money would have been better spent protecting a river.


If the company owned by Planet Earth can't make individual brand sustainability work, your strategy is already obsolete.


The Problem Isn't Commitment. It's Coordination.


Raw materials and manufacturing generate 92% of Patagonia's footprint. But Patagonia doesn't own its factories. As one customer among many, they have virtually no leverage. Most decarbonisation depends on grid decisions completely outside their control.


The coordination failures are brutal:

  • Just 1% of products ever made get returned for recycling. Of those, only 20% can be processed

  • Only 39% of their 65,000 supply chain workers receive living wages - not from lack of trying, but crushing complexity

  • Emissions rose 2% last year because product changes had impacts their systems couldn't predict


Meanwhile, The Fashion Pact - launched in 2019 with CEO-level commitment from Chanel, Kering and Prada - just announced their big win: an "optional questionnaire" for suppliers. Six years for an optional questionnaire.


Gellert's assessment is blunt: the work is "super time consuming and super expensive, and it's the unsexiest thing in the world."


Unsexy work that doesn't scale is exactly what automation exists to solve.


What You Could Do Now


Automate product data infrastructure: If assortment shifts cause unexpected emission spikes at Patagonia, your spreadsheets definitely can't predict impact. Tools like Aistetic's ListingEngine let you build data foundations whilst solving immediate catalogue needs.


Build supplier visibility systematically: Stop treating certifications and factory conditions as annual reporting exercises. Centralise this data operationally before regulations like California's SB253 reach full implementation.


Make impact calculable before decisions: Calculate environmental footprints as you plan ranges, not six months later in reports.


Join coalitions building shared infrastructure: Patagonia co-founded The Conservation Alliance, recognising nothing changes if they act alone. Choose coalitions sharing actual tools, not just values.


Where This Goes


Patagonia's honesty reveals the phase change. Individual brand sustainability has hit structural limits. The coordination mechanisms don't exist. The visibility doesn't exist. The infrastructure doesn't exist.


The brands winning in 2030 won't have the most earnest reports. They'll have systems that execute on supply chain complexity - product data connected to emissions impact, automated compliance monitoring, environmental footprinting built into assortment planning.


If you can't make sustainable operations work with Patagonia's resources and Planet Earth as your shareholder, you definitely can't make them work with spreadsheets and supplier emails.


The point: whilst Patagonia spent 52 years proving individual action doesn't scale, they accidentally proved something else. Every coordination problem they hit - from supplier visibility to emissions tracking to material tracing - is a problem that gets solved exactly once.


The brands building that infrastructure now aren't just getting ready for regulations. They're building competitive moats whilst everyone else is still writing sustainability reports.


Patagonia's crisis is your shortcut. They've already mapped every dead end.

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